There has been a rising trend among tourists from around the world to visit dark tourism sites— places that witnessed some of the world’s most horrific events and suffering. Sites such as Ground Zero, Auschwitz-Birkenau, Hiroshima Peace Memorial and Chernobyl have witnessed an influx of visitors. This leads one to question, what exactly is driving people to visit such sites? Is it to learn more or merely voyeurism?
We recently saw a video where Israeli jets entered German airspace for the very first time in history. Both the German and Israeli Air Force planes flew side by side over the Dachau concentration camp, paying their respects to those brutally murdered there during the Holocaust. The commander of Israeli jets, Major General Amikam Norkin, said the act signified a pledge for the future—“… Flying together above the valley of darkness, making room for only light ahead as we vow: never again”
This took us back to the time we visited the Auschwitz- Birkenau concentration camp in Poland— a place synonymous with terror and brutality. This was where the horrific genocide of over 1 million people who were killed by the Nazis took place. While some visitors were respectful of the place and the pain and suffering it caused millions, we were shocked to see some of them posing in front of historical exhibits and personal belongings of the prisoners. Some even took selfies while smiling! Just last year, Auschwitz Memorial posted pictures on Twitter of people balancing themselves on train tracks and asked people to respect the memory of those who were killed at the concentration camp.
In India, Madras War Cemetery— home to 855 graves of the soldiers who died during the Second World War— was opened to the public to promote it as a dark tourism site for an educational experience. However, various newspapers have reported that it is mostly used as a garden for leisurely walks and even wedding photo shoots. Jallianwala Bagh is the site where British General Reginald Dyre’s troops opened fire on unarmed civilians gathered there on the occasion of Baisakhi, without any warning. Hundreds were killed instantly. This massacre was one of the darkest moments in Indian history. Today, locals can be seen picnicking in the garden, scribbling on the monument walls and taking selfies.
Along Lothian road in Old Delhi, two structures— The British Magazine Memorial and the Telegraph Memorial— bear witness to the Revolt of 1857, India’s first war for Independence. This site had a huge arsenal of the British Army in India and was hence a strategic point Indian rebels wanted to capture. Hundreds of rebels surrounded the Magazine Memorial. The British had to blow up the arsenal completely to save it from getting into the hands of the rebels, killing many. The damage caused to Kashmere Gate, one of the gates then used to enter Delhi, is still visible. The Nicholson Cemetery nearby is the final resting place of thousands of Indians and Britishers who lost their lives during the British era, many of whom were very young. The Mutiny Memorial, also known as Ajitgarh, is a red sandstone gothic tower erected by the British to pay tribute to a large number of soldiers of the Delhi Field Force who laid down their lives. These are all dark tourism sites offering an opportunity to know more about India’s history. Unfortunately, they are absolutely neglected and uncared for by the government, tourism boards and people alike.
Varanasi is a city where numerous Hindus come to breathe their last. They believe dying in Varanasi with their ashes immersed in the holy Ganges will free them from the cycle of rebirth and help them attain salvation. Kashi Labh Mukti Bhavan, described as ‘Hotel Salvation’ by some, has been providing free accommodation for over 60 years to those who come from places far away and wish to die in Varanasi. Over 15,000 people have died in Mukti Bhavan since it was established, making it a unique place helping believers fulfil their last wishes. With so many people passing on in Varanasi, numerous pyres can be seen burning at Manikarnika Ghat twenty-four hours a day. A visit to both these places is a rather sobering experience.
Partition Museum in Amritsar tells the story of India’s partition into two countries, which resulted in the largest migration in human history. Devastating bloodshed and rioting followed Partition. With individual stories and interviews of survivors, along with memorabilia and documents donated by individuals and families who were affected, the museum aims to bring to light the death and suffering resulting from personal political agendas, religious discrimination and violence.
The Remember Bhopal Museum reflects on one of the world’s deadliest industrial disasters that killed thousands. The Cellular Jail in Port Blair depicts the horrors and torture the British inflicted on India’s freedom fighters. Gandhi Smriti and Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum in New Delhi are the sites where these two political leaders were assassinated. These are all dark tourism sites, which are meant to reflect on the horrifying and devastating history of suffering, misery and bloodshed.
With an increasing number of tourists visiting dark tourism sites across the world, there are rising questions about the ethics of modern tourism and public behaviour in a world driven by social media, selfies and Instagram-worthy content. Plus, tourism boards and governments in some places need to educate people on the significance of such sites and distinguish such sites from regular tourism sites, which are mostly for enjoyment and entertainment. There is also a growing need to preserve sites of dark tourism, which are an important part of history and bring to light the atrocities of the past. Dark tourism is supposed to be respectful and informative, and provide an educational experience in a non-sensationalized manner. In the words of J. John Lennon, one of the two people who coined the word ‘dark tourism’— “These are important sites that tell us a lot about what it is to be human. I think they are important places for us to reflect on and try to better understand the evil we’re capable of.”
The vow by Major General Amikam Norkin, who led the Israeli jets, is only possible if we respect, reflect on and connect with our world’s dark history, learn from it and work towards a better future.